Author Archives: Paul

Marklin 700 Series Locomotives

The 700 series from Marklin was the very first 00/HO series and denotes the earliest 00 motor type.  These locomotives first came out in 1935 and were phased out in 1938 with the introduction of the 800 series. All 700 series locomotive motors and frames are fairly similar with some differences between smaller locomotives like the R 700 and bigger ones like the HR 700. The HS 700 and HR 700 locomotives have different larger frames and slightly bigger armatures. The TWE 700 triebwagen has a more simplified motor frame and additional holes and brackets for mounting the motor to the housing.

Marklin TWE 700 brush holder bracket with two additional holes for mounting
Marklin TWE 700 motor chassis

We can also see the TWE 700 motor in addition to having some additional holes and a metal bracket is missing a post on top toward the front that the other 700 series locomotives have for screwing the housing. Likely Marklin used a similar diecast mold but just had a special insert to remove this post for the TWE 700 frame.

Back to the regular motor for locomotives like the SLR, R, RS 700 we can see that the two wires going off the field magnet control the direction of the locomotive. The two wire leads are soldered onto the plate terminals. The third terminal is soldered to the pickup shoe through another wire. Thus by switching the hand lever on the far right, we can change the direction of the locomotive. The example below has the field magnet rewound with new wiring because the old wire leads broke off as they are very fragile.

700 series wiring with forward and reverse for hand switch

It’s common that the fragile copper wires on the field magnet break and the motor no longer functions. In some cases, we can see the end of the broken wire and can solder a new lead onto it. In other cases the broken end is lost in the spool of wires and we must rewind the entire motor.

Example of a wire lead on the field magnet breaking off
Sometimes we can solder a new copper wire onto the broken field magnet wire

Now that we know that the two wire leads on the right side of the field magnet control the direction, we have the wire leads on the left side of the field magnet. On original Marklin field magnets, there is just one wire but rewound ones often have two (for each direction). These wires must make contact with the left motor brush and are soldered onto a round metal ring. The wire fits into a grove in the motor brush bracket so that it is flush and the locomotive outer frame can fit over.

Soldering an original ring onto the left wire of the field magnet

With the field magnet wiring complete, we now focus on mechanical issues common to thee 700 series motors. The frames and brackets are often warped, but still functional and sound after glueing and repair. In order to have smooth operation, the field magnet must be fixed firmly in place otherwise the spinning armature will rub against the field magnet or get magnetically “stuck” to it. The motor brush holder piece holds the field magnet into place and is screwed into the frame with two screws. Shims are often necessary to bridge the gap and insure the field magnet is secure. Strong cardstock or thin sheet metal shims can be used.

When the field magnet is secure, it should be completely fixed and not move within the frame. A clicking sound when the armature is spun indicates the armature is not properly aligned. Buzzing of the locomotive with no spinning often means the armature is stuck against the field magnet or there is an electrical short. Next we discuss the motor brushes which are an important part. One carbon brush and one copper mesh brush. Both brushes must make constant contact with the armature and are held into place with two springs.

That concludes our overview of 700 series motors, common mechanical issues, and wiring setups. As with any moving system of parts, some oil at points of friction (gears, axles, armature ends, etc.) helps with the smooth performance of the locomotive.

The Timeless Magic of FAO Schwarz: Journey Into an Iconic Toy Store

For over 160 years, FAO Schwarz has captivated the hearts of children and adults alike with its enchanting toy stores. From its humble beginnings in Baltimore to its current status as a beloved global brand, FAO Schwarz has evolved while maintaining its essence. In this blog post, we’ll delve into the rich history of this iconic toy store and explore its transformation over the years.

Early Years (1869-1920)

German immigrant Frederick August Otto Schwarz founded FAO Schwarz in Baltimore in 1869. Initially a small toy store, it quickly gained popularity for its unique and diverse offerings. By the early 1900s, Schwarz expanded to New York City, opening a flagship store on Broadway. The store’s early success stemmed from its focus on quality, innovation, and customer experience.

The Schwarz name, however, did not just stop with FAO – the son Gustav also founded several toy stores (GA Schwarz) with the following addresses compiled from various advertising cards over the decades:

1006 Chestnut St., Philadelphia
42 E. Fourteenth St., New York
497 & 499 Washington St., Boston
211 W. Baltimore St., Baltimore

G. A. Schwarz, Toy and Fancy Emporium, 1006 Chestnut St., Philada., circa 1864/1866 – New York Public Library Digital Collection

The Golden Age (1920-1960)

During the mid-20th century, FAO Schwarz solidified its position as a premier toy destination. Its flagship store became a tourist attraction, featuring elaborate window displays and in-store demonstrations. The store introduced iconic toys like the yo-yo and Erector Sets, cementing its reputation for offering more than just toys – it offered experiences.

Expansion and Challenges (1960-2000)

FAO Schwarz expanded across the United States, opening stores in major cities. However, the rise of big-box retailers and online competition posed significant challenges. Adapting to these changes, the company embraced e-commerce and diversified its product lines.

Modern Era (2000-Present)

In 2009, FAO Schwarz closed its flagship store due to rising rents. Many feared the end of an era, but the brand’s resilience prevailed. In 2018, a new flagship store opened in Manhattan, blending traditional charm with modern elements. The brand has expanded globally, maintaining storefronts in pop-up stores, airports, and large retail locations. They also have an online store with exclusive FAO-branded toys for sale.

Special Invitation Cards and Advertisements for FAO Schwarz

Circa 1880 FAO Schwarz advertisement. Importer of German, French, and English toys.

FAO Schwarz Labels on Marklin Toys

An FAO Schwarz label on a Marklin 00 HS 700 box dating ca. 1936/37
MARKLIN FAO SCHWARZ COVERED WAGON
Marklin Gauge 1 freight car with special FAO Schwarz stamping on canvas sold by Bertoia Auctions.
RARE MARKLIN RED LOCOMOTIVE & TENDER
Marklin Gauge 1 “red cab” loco reportedly sold by FAO Schwarz. FAO likely special ordered thees from Marklin. Several variations are known to exist.
FAO Schwarz starburst logo sticker found on an early Marklin set box lid
George Brown wagon made for G.A. Schwarz around 1880.
Circa 1910 Marklin car Gauge 1 stamped with FAO Schwarz.

FAO Showrooms

Playthings magazine November, 1910. Large Marklin boats can be seen on the top displays.

TW 800 B: Rescued from Ruin and Now Running!

The Marklin TW 800 locomotive is certainly one of the more peculiar locomotives from Marklin. The model, based on the German DRG Class SVT 877, was also produced in O Gauge (even as a 3-piece model) under model numbers like the 20V electric TW 66 12940 and the TW 970 in clockwork. In a previous article on the TW 800, we explored the different versions and variations from Marklin. In this article we’ll dive deep into the daunting restoration of one of these models.

The particular locomotive we’ll be covering in this article is the TW 800 B (for Blau, or blue in German) that was discovered in the original box with even with the corrugated wrapper! The locomotive was found with several other locomotives from the 1948-1950 period including an early CCS 800 (either first or second version). The locomotive, however, was in a very poor condition – with substantial warping to the housings and frames. And after the handling of the USPS across the country, the housings deteriorated even more – with one housing breaking into dozens of pieces.

Marklin TW 800 as found in the box – after suffering even more damage during shipping
All parts laid out – broken into many pieces – but mostly complete

A quick analysis of the parts, however, showed that (nearly) all necessary pieces were present to rebuild the locomotive. Each crack also fit neatly back into place and all the breaks were very clean – meaning that piecing the locomotive back together could be possible. Missing parts like the window struts were reconstructed using metal backings for strength, 3D printed parts for shape, and epoxy putty to blend it together. The overall goal of the project after all, was to restore the locomotive to running condition, have it be presentable, and maintain as many original parts as possible.

TW 800 body with 3D printed window parts
Both front housings restored. One was completely damaged into dozens of pieces and assembled back together.

After repairing both bodies there was still a fair amount of warping to them. The warping would be impossible fix without breaking and re-setting pieces in different locations which would not be worth the effort. This, however, also disallowed the possibility of using replica or even new original frames because they would not fit after the housings had expanded and contracted in some areas. Instead, 3D printed supports were used to span the areas where the metal had completely eroded away. The printed supports were secured to the original metal at existing screw locations where the motors mounted to the frame. This provided a way to provide strength to the frames while still using the original parts that have the appropriate weight.

3D printed supports used to connect the original frames

After the structural components of the housings and frames were mostly secure, it was time to move onto the motors. One more ran immediately very well and had almost no problems except for some loose wheels. The other motor, however, suffered from more zincpest. Salvaged original parts were borrowed from another locomotive from the same collection that had very bad damage but good motor parts. After assembling the parts together, a test run showed that the weight and balance of the locomotive was decent, but there were frequent derailments. The video below shows one test run in which the locomotive did not derail. A temporary while was used to provide power to the motors, since the ground was interrupted by a broken part.

All possible causes of derailments happened on this locomotive which makes it a very good teaching lesson on what causes derailments:

  • Improper balance – the very end pieces which had broken off were not present which meant that the motors were weighted heavily on one side but not the other. This throws the motor off balance.
  • One wheel set when refitted was not pressed on enough, meaning the distance between the wheels was too great, so the wheel was easily jumping off the track.
  • One wheel flange was chipped off, meaning the wheel could slide off the rail. This was repaired and prevented future derailments.
  • And finally, the rear motor did not have enough room to turn inside the frame, so it rubbed against the frame, which also caused derailments because the motor truck was not free to move.

After these adjustments were made, the locomotive ran perfectly!

Marklin War Toys: The Boer War Armored Train Panzerzug (Part 2)

Continuing on our series of Marklin toys and trains reflecting history, and specifically the history of war, we explore the Marklin armored trains (or Panzerzug). The “Panzerkanonenwagen” (from 1904: “Panzer-Geschützwagen”) was available individually from 1900 to early 1909 under the number 1853 / I. The train was available in gauges O, I, and II and in a completely different form under the Marklin Liliput trains, in 26mm gauge as a boxed set.

An example of a Gauge 1 armored canon car (Panzer-Geschützwagen) with detailed hand-painting, lining, working cap guns triggered by side levers. Source: eBay Item 323999319441 from December 2019.
Example of the same canon car (Panzer-Geschützwagen) but for Gauge 2 (Spur II). The sign states 1901-07 but research shows the car might have actually been available until 1909. Notice the similar 3-canon arrangement but much larger size, and the front structure with a polygonal design instead of flat angled armor like the smaller gauges.

From a cursory look at available models shown in collections, museums, and books, it appears that the I gauge variation of the armored train set was most commonly sold, whereas the O Gauge and Gauge II versions are more seldom seen. It may seem counterintuitive that the smaller O Gauge version was not the most commonly sold, given its smaller size and lower price tag. But we must remember that O gauge became popularized really in the late 1920s and 1930s. Prior to that, and especially at the turn of the Century when this armored train was sold – these were purchased by the wealthy and so price was not as much of a factor. If they already had a 1 Gauge layout – they would buy the 1 Gauge model, and not go for the slightly less expensive O Gauge.

Armored train offered in the 1909 main catalog in Gauge O, I, and II under the clockwork section, page 16. The catalog notes that the train travels forward and reverse, and has automatic-firing gun wagons. The separate car include tin infantry soldiers that fire from the slots in the armored car.

Reproductions of the armored train

The armored train from Marklin certainly enthralls collectors from both a historical perspective and the incredible detail of the firing cannons and the intricacy of the hundreds of rivets across the entire train. As such, several makers have produced fine reproductions of the train set.

Schmitz replica panzerzug in Gauge O, electric. Source: eBay seller antikpavillon

What’s interesting about the Schmitz replica is the incredible attention to the original. Schmitz managed to almost fully replicate the Marklin cap guns which is quite an engineering feat and likely required many tests and lots of time in the machine shop. The painting is also quite realistic and the variation of color across the wagons also makes the trainset look older. Schmitz went with more of a brown/green tint to the painting whereas Marklin seemed to either have two variations of blue and gray, or variations in how the trains were stored over the past 100 years simply changed the aging of the lacquer, which can easily completely alter the color of a piece. That’s likely also what makes a complete Panzerzug with matching color so much more rare – when you piece together a train the lacquer between each car likely will differ between each one.

References and Sources

3D Printing Model Railroad Buildings: Marklin Villa Edition

The Marklin Villa has always been a “dream item” for Marklin collectors. For those that don’t know the legend of this wonderful piece, it’s worth first reading the wonderful article on Tischbahn (in the German language). As a quick summary, the Marklin Villa was never a full-production model or shown for sale in any catalog. Legend goes that it was made by Marklin employees for training in how to work with tinplate. But if you look at the incredible construction of these pieces, you might think otherwise.

The Villa is characteristic of other tin stations and buildings that Marklin made during the 1930s and even earlier. Everything is formed, stamped, shaped, and hand-soldered together. Edges that need reinforcing such as along the roof edges are “hemmed” wherein about 4mm of tin is folded over to double up the thickness and provide extra strength and makes the edge smooth.

The Villa has shown up several times in the past few decades on the auction block and also in the private market. It is believe that in addition to being featured on show layouts and displays, it was an item for export to England. It’s not surprising a few have shown up in England and the style of the Villa is rather characteristic of English architecture, but equally could be modeled after a German Villa too.

Can we reproduce the Marklin Villa?

Several noble hobbyists have made reproductions of the villa and done incredible work. Windows are cut and filed by hand and even after the parts are made, the soldering can take hours. The intricate details and geometric design of the roof is very difficult to model and recreate perfectly.

No doubt such a rare and sought after item deserves to be replicated and enjoyed by those who cannot afford to buy an original. And even for those that can afford it, one cannot simply just buy one any day of the week!

3D printing the Villa

After seeing the success of some modern 3D printers we thought it would be fun to try and tastefully recreate the model in plastic. Yes, it’s not made out of the original 0.35mm tinplate – but after all isn’t it the charming design and fine hand-painting that makes this item special and not the fact that it’s made out of metal? 3D printing offers a wonderful trade-off of quicker production time and also being able to accurately recreate the model over and over. Click here if you are interested to see other 3d models based off of Marklin toys.

The first step when producing a new item is finding an accurate example to get measurements from and build a 3D CAD model. Luckily several photos online with known measurements helped immensely. A fellow collector in Germany with an original example also shared the exact dimensions of his model for mm accuracy in the final build. Because our reproduction is made out of plastic and could never be confused with metal, we are building to the exact specifications. If we were building it out of metal, we would likely add some “signatures” to the model so that it could never be passed off as an “original.”

Many many hours of CAD modeling later we have a fairly accurate 3D model of the Villa. Some detail parts like the chimney tops, roofs, and door overhangs are left off and will be added as metal detail parts later.

Find the 3D printer we used on eBay:

3D Model of the Villa in Fusion360

Next we separate the model into printable components. Naturally we will print the roof separately. The first print split each wall into a separate piece to be printed flat. This required adding “supports” to the model to account for the two front arched windows. This print design was later found to be not as optimal and the second print was done as all one piece and completely vertical with no supports! The fine .02mm resolution of the printing and careful adjustment of print settings allowed the print to turn out very well despite not having an support structure printed.

3D print of Villa with no supports – print time about 2hrs at fine detail resolution

Construction and painting

While the initial printing setup, which included supports that had to be removed after printing, had many drawbacks in terms of print quality and post-processing time, the later vertical printing design was much faster and higher quality. In this version, the back wall is also not printed and instead a tinplate sheet was cut and bent to fit and glued to the plastic. This both added weight and some more realism with the metal.

The roof was also printed as a separate part and the chimney top detail pieces were also made to fit and glued. After full assembly, some weights were added to the inside of the roof to again give the feeling of metal instead of plastic. After full assembly, the building is primed with several coats of primer in order to cover the print lines as much as possible and build up a smooth layer of paint.

Painting was done with a mix of acrylic and oil paints. Acrylic paint provides fast drying times while oil provides superior blending and color mixing capabilities. In most cases the final coat of paint is always oil because it has a better overall finish that acrylic.

The last step is shellacing the entire piece with a thick coat in order to seal all the paint and provide a nice gloss coat. At this step as well some weathering and aging is done to give the appearance of almost 100 years of age.

Version 1 of the painted Villa next to Version 2 on the right with higher resolution and finer lines. In the background some future English Marklin projects!

Marklin Villa variations

Over the years we’ve identified several different variations of the villa – in both construction and painting. The one we have reproduced here is the “symmetric” version with two chimneys in the back. The more commonly seen version has one chimney on the side and one in the front in the center.

The version that we modeled this Villa after was symmetric, and had an interesting beige color seem and so we reproduced that painting schema as seen in the photo below. The model for this was sold once at a Christie’s toy auction.

Marklin Villa symmetric beige variation sold at Christie’s lot 197
Both of the main color schemes of the Marklin Villa. With an R 700 LMS on the sidetrack to complete the British scene.
Two assembled, unpainted kits on the left and the two finished versions on the right.
« Older Entries